What I love about this program is that it provides such a comprehensive experience of Holland. We’ve been able to visit many cities and towns. We’ve been exposed to refined culture as well as street culture. We’ve been able to meet a wide variety of people, from the most famous journalists to the sweetest Dutch kids. Today was no different. Even mroe, today greatly expanded this already diverse program.
Jolijn took us to Harten Hoeve, her farm in Geldermarten, one of the rural villages in Holland. It’s a far cry from the slightly claustrophobic and busy streets of Amsterdam with its seemingly endless stretch of grazing fields, apple or cherry orchards and charming small houses. No bikers here at all, but there are some Mini Coopers and family cars.
It was raining while we travelled. Although I generally don’t like Holland rain because of the cold it brings, the rain added a whole new dimension to my travelling experience. It swathed the entire country-side in this fine muslin-like curtain that just made the entire place seem so much more rural, precious and elusive. All of us had put on many layers of clothing but the cold was inescapable. It numbed our fingers and made our noses ice-cold buttons. One of the best things about the entire trip was the huge, rugged white van Jolijn picked us up in. Inside was a cavern-like space with bare, grey leather seats, stripped metal floor and rusty metal rods which you held on to during the slightly bumpy ride. The floor of the driver’s area was not metal but of a very worn out rug that was so dirty and old that at first I thought it was soil. I love that van. It made me feel like we were all going on an adventure. I love it also because it gave us a very much wanted taste of warmth amidst the rain all around us.
Finally, after riding through fields of grazing cows and sheep, orchards, forests, dikes and big farm houses, we got to a small bungalow belonging to the Van Hartens. As we got off the van, we passed through a small drive flankled by two short pillars bearing the grey heads of two cement horses. We bustled into a door that led to a small corridor. Jolijn told us to take off our shoes and make sure never to wear them inside the house. The house is a property of her family occupied by mentally-handicapped people they have taken in.
Jolijn showed us our rooms. The girls’ room was wonderful. Two bunker beds filled the space. There was a single rectangular window on top of a wall. Sitting below it, against the window pane awash with rain water, was a row of small stufftoys. On the left wall were drawings by children. The room must’ve been occupied by mentally-retarded children in the past. Climbing up to the bed that I claimed, I was delighted to see so many soft and comfy sheets and comforters.
Jolijn showed us the common room and kitchen. No room could be more pleasant. On the left side from the door was a small kitchen flooded by sunlight, to the right is a living room with very comfy sofas and pillows. On the far end was a small television that only played VHS tapes. Beside the door were bookshelves stocked with Dutch children’s books. Between the TV and one of the sofas was a rug on top of which was a wooden table with a stack of hard plastic cups of different colors and a plate of stroopwafels. We rejoiced. How hungry we were at that moment!
After a very pleasant snack, we all got back on the Adventure Bus and drove to a cow farm. I loved it! We got to see an entire barn of cows and bulls, as well as baby cows or calfs. One was just a week old! The adorable thing sucked my finger as if it was a teet. It was a gloopy, sticky and sloppy experience. The calf’s tongue was so soft but when an adult cow licked me later on in the day, I was surprised at how rough their tongues can become. Must be from eating all the tough grass. The barn was really smelly though. Pungent, earthy and spicy at the same time.
The farmer, who couldn’t speak English, showed us his hi-tech milking machine. Apparently, cows can produce up to 40 liters of milk, 10 on a weak day. Cows can only be milked when they’re two and half years old. The machine had this hi-tech detector that sensed the udder so that the suction thinggy could find it easily. Pipes from the suction thinggy led all the way to a huge metal vat full of milk. We got to climb a short ladder to look into the vat. It was a swimming pool of fresh milk.
To make the Dutch cow farm experience complete, a sweet old lady came in to welcome us and offer us glass after glass after glass of milk. She was an old lady right out of a fairytale, with big, teary, pale blue eyes, an untroubled brow, almost transculent skin, a huge beaming smile and short curly gray hair. She wore small round glasses and a red apron. To complete the look, she carried a plate full of slices of this extremely delicious apricot cake and a jar of fresh cow’s milk. She spoke in a very loud, shrill voice that would have been irritating if she wasn’t using it to constantly (even stubbornly) offer milk, cherry (?) juice and sapplesapsap (orange juice). She didn’t know a word in English but with her big eyes, smile and body language, we could tell what she was trying so ardently to express: that we should drink more and more milk!
She told us (in Dutch) how she had just adopted three children from Indonesia. Maybe she was really happy about us because she gave us an idea of what her children might look like when they grow up.
Then, Jolijn took us to the heart of Harten Hoeve. We drove in a big dirt courtyard fronted by a huge horse made of wooden boards. It reminded us strongly of the Trojan Horse. There were cars parked in the dirt courtyard and the bar-like establishment had people in rough outdoor attire sitting and maybe drinking (didn’t see that clearly).
Jolijn led us inside the house to the right. It was such a cozy, lived in place. I remember a lot of us stuff inside the cabinet that faced the door, coats, hats, scarves and the like. To the right was the kitchen and dining area. And what a sight it was for sore eyes, wet hair and cold hands! On the table, laid out beautifully, were two huge bowls of two different kinds of soup, mini pancakes, bread (that looked like big pan de sal) and ham. There was also fruit juices like sapplesapsap (orange and peach). That lunch is the best lunch I’ve had in Holland. It wasn’t just the good food. The warm cosiness, the feeling of being sheltered from the rain and cold, the knowledge that I was far away from the rumble and tumble of Amsterdam or any major city and the company of my friends added so many dimensions of pleasantness and happiness. To top it all off, a big black furry dog with a terrier face joined us at the dining area and started jumping on our laps to ask for food. His name is Yupi and he is adorable. He went to me first and I couldn’t help but pat his cute head despite the fact that I was already eating with my hands.
We went out again, into the courtyard with the bar-like establishment. To my utter delight, a big black dog bounded from the little porch with a deflated and very worn out soccer ball in his mouth. I started playing soccer with the dog. He was very well-trained, playful and exuberant. I kicked the ball to him and he would catch it in mid-air with his jaws. He moved the ball around with his snout. I would kick the ball and dribble it to confuse him. Our little game tired me quite a bit but I was still ready for the next activity: horse-back riding.
After everyone had their turn with the horse (we got to wear real riding helmets), we all struggled to find and put on the perfect pair of farming boots. They are big rubber boots that can reach up to the bottom of your knees.
We were off to play boerengolf or farmers’ golf! Jolijn drove us to the ranch of her auntie. As a hobby, her aunt’s family decided to make some of their land into a boerengolf field. She taught us some of the basics in her little pub. We grouped ourselves and created a team name. Jio, Kai, Jolijn and I formed the Cow Lekkers!
The game was the most fun that day, and that’s saying a lot. Basically, the objective of the game is basically to use as little swings as possible to put in your team’s ball into all eight holes. Everyone took a turn swinging the boerengolfclub, which is basically a wooden rod with a piece of wood carved into a klompen on one end. You and your teammates would swing and swing until the ball went in the hole marked by a flag with a number. Then you moved on to the next hole.
Some restrictions: you cannot hit a cow (cows were grazing all over the field). If you do, three points or swings must be added to your score sheet. When the ball gets into a ditch, you can fish it out with your hands but you must set it down in a spot that is as far as the length of the club in any direction EXCEPT for that of the next hole.
It’s a simple game with simple rules. That’s what makes it so fun. I was getting quite competitive. I would gamely run to the next hole. Swinging the club and hitting the ball then seeing it go far is very satisfying. Jio was definitely our most valuable player. All his swings made the ball fly fast and far. We made a lot of progress in a short amount of time. From the onset, we were leading the game.
The fourth hole had a surprise. Marion, Jolijn’s aunt, prepared a little picnic there. She left us with a basket of tea and some other drinks. It was nice. We talked about our childhood. Again, another memorable drinking experience because we were in the middle of a field of grazing cows, under a line of tall trees, surrounded by the peaceful countryside of Geldermarten.
But we had to resume the game after a while. We were still leading by quite a distance. In the end, we finished first. But speed is not the name of the game. You can finish first but have more swings than the slower team. So it was not yet a sure victory.
After the other team had finished, we went inside Marion’s place, specifically a terrace with tables and chairs, beside a garden courtyard. There, Marion’s husband would announce the winner and bequeath the prize.
The winners turned out to be us Cow Lekkers! The prize, a bottle of champagne for each of us. Awesome.
Feeling tired but very fulfilled, we all scrambled into the Adventure Bus. Jolijn drove us back to the house where we would sleep in. Gerwald, Ans, Heleen had arrived at last. We had another fantastic meal in the long dining table inside the common room. We had three types of mashed potato, bread and meat. We also met this guy named Sven who used to be a drug addict. We asked him some questions.
I was very interested in what he had to say because one of my closest friends used to be a drug addict and is now in rehab. While fixing up dishes, I asked him how he stayed sober, what motivated him to keep off of drugs. He said that it’s all about keeping your mind away from it, being busy, doing something else truly fulfilling. He cultivates his passion for graphic design and music. He helps around with the farm. He said he got into drugs because of boredom and because of his parents’ divorce. If you think about it, all evil comes from a domino effect that starts from a seemingly small and mundane thing, just like good. We all know the Parable of the Mustard Seed, don’t we? The trick is to spot that tiny instant when evil takes form and then kill it immediately before it gets any worse.
That night, some of us had beers and told some cultural jokes. I noticed that our jokes involved poking fun at fellow Filipinos or the idea of being Filipino while the Dutch jokes mainly made fun of other nationalities like Belgian. Self-deprecation is something Filipinos delight in. But it’s not a sad, despairing kind of self-deprecation. It’s cheerful, fun and light-hearted. We might be accused of avoiding the issue and not confronting our faults, but I think it’s just our way of dealing with our stereotypes.
With boeren golf, horseback-riding and stomping around a huge ranch and farm, I was dead-beat that night. I tucked in early and savored the soft sheets and pillows of my upper bunk bed.